Aug 25

Aug 25 Visiting Cantina Popular

Essen, Reportage, Hamburg, Tasting, Restaurant

Carlos Ledesma Mosquero, Cristian Orellanus — Carlos Ledesma Mosquero, Cristian Orellanus

“El ceviche es la perfecion de lo simple” (ceviche is simplicity in perfection) – with this statement about his cuisine, one that expresses a lot in a few words, Carlos Ledesma Mosquero, sous chef of “Cantina Popular”, welcomes me on this morning in Hamburg.

After a quick greeting and an organic, self-imported French press coffee, he and Cristian Orellanus, the head chef and creative brains of the Cantina, begin to discuss their cuisine, culinary message, and the current trends of Peruvian gastronomy. I quickly realise that I’m wandering into uncharted territory when it comes to my Spanish language skills. As I start the conversation, both of them begin to become more animated, their eyes sparkling as they describe the flavours and textures of their recipes and the ingredients they use. As Carlos prepares my Ceviche (also known as “Cebiche”) Classico, my eyes scan the restaurant, from the colourful mosaics in the tables to the open kitchen with its specially-made concrete decore.

Designs, mosaics, as well as green and orange-coloured walls together with the ceiling paintings successfully turn the 15-table-room into a work of art. Cristian pours us each a “Cicha Morada”, a refreshing drink made from purple corn and pineapples. While we sip our drinks, he shows us his vegetable garden, which sits adjacent to the restaurant. Slightly sceptical, I scrutinize his Aji Amarillo plants while they are subjected to a light drizzle and Hamburg’s 16-degree summer temperatures. I admire the courage and motivation that’s needed to grow exotic and organic produce at these latitudes. I discover that Cristian lives in the flat above the Cantina and zealously approaches the task entrusted to him by the co-owners, Maria Endlich and Alvaro Rodrigo Pina Otey from the "Bistro Carmagnole", and the book author Heinz Strunk as well as Karl-Heinz Dellwo. It’s no surprise that coca-cola isn’t served within this haven of restaurateurs. Here, the whole concept revolves around the menu which consists of small tapas that change from month to month. This was instated so as to present the customer with a variety of Latin-American tastes rather than to saturate them with just one.

As my “Ceviche Classico” is placed in front of me, I forget my assignment and everything around me. The sour “tiger’s milk” that marinates the sea bass acts as a perfect counterweight to the dollops of sweet potato puree. Crispy “Canchita”, roasted Andean corn, contrasts the tender fish fillet chunks and the fruity spice of the chilies, and the intense flavour of the coriander rounds it all off.

Here, five to six ingredients can become a whole dish! I agree with Carlos! Cuisine can be so simple… if you’ve got the skills!